When I was in Hawaii, I
picked up a little white plastic card, about the size of a credit card.
I got it, in a round about way, from a
beautiful young lady who
doesn't surf. Why she had it, I don't know, but I found it interesting
enough to pass on to you.
On one side it says:
| "Over the last 37 years,
I have traveled and surfed many of the world's best waves, and have surfed
with many of the world's greatest surfers. Some very special surfers have
a unique connection with the ocean, and a sense of how they fit into the
universe. I have taken pieces of wisdom from these surfers, and other people,
and have used them throughout my surfing life. Hopefully, you may find
these thoughts useful, too." |
Signed,
Shaun Thomson
On the other side:
A Surfer's Code
I will never turn my back on the
ocean.
I will always paddle back out.
I will take the drop with commitment.
I will know that there will always
be another wave.
I will realize that all surfers are
joined by one ocean.
I will paddle around the impact zone.
I will never fight a rip tide.
I will watch out for other surfers
after a big set.
I will pass on my stoke to a nonsurfer.
I will ride, and not paddle in to shore.
I will catch a wave every day, even
in my mind.
I will honor the sport of kings.
|
|